Real Estate & Mortgage
Refinance Calculator
Compare your current mortgage with a new one. See the change in monthly payment, the break-even point after refinance costs, and the difference in total interest — including the effect of resetting the term.

Estimates are for informational purposes and may differ from actual lender offers, tax assessments or insurance quotes. This is not financial, tax or legal advice.
Is refinancing worth it?
Refinancing is worth it when your monthly savings recover the closing costs before you expect to sell or refinance again, and when you have also checked that total lifetime interest does not rise because of a reset term. Use the break-even month and the interest comparison below together — either one alone can be misleading.
Key takeaways
- The break-even month is when cumulative monthly savings equal the closing costs — refinancing only helps if you keep the loan past that point.
- Rolling closing costs into the loan avoids cash at closing but adds interest on those costs for the full term.
- Resetting to a fresh 30-year term lowers the payment but can add years of interest even at a lower rate; matching your remaining term isolates the rate benefit.
- Cash-out refinances are priced higher than rate-and-term refinances and increase both your balance and your monthly payment.
- A lower rate does not always mean lower lifetime interest once a longer term and rolled-in fees are counted.
- Escrow accounts are typically refunded from the old loan and re-funded on the new one — plan for that separately from the closing costs entered here.
Enter your details
Estimated result
Monthly payment saving
$294
Break-even on $5,000 of costs after 17 months
- New monthly payment
- $1,889
- Lifetime interest saved
- $32,402
Current loan
- Monthly payment (P&I)
- $2,183
- Remaining balance
- $309,995
- Payments remaining
- 324
- Interest remaining if you keep it
- $397,286
New loan
- New loan amount
- $314,995
- Cash out
- $0
- Closing costsAdded to the loan balance
- $5,000
- Monthly payment (P&I)
- $1,889
- Payments
- 360
- Total interest over the new term
- $364,884
Comparison
- Monthly difference
- $294
- Cash required at closing
- $0
- Break-even point
- 17 months
- Total interest differenceSaved by refinancing
- $32,402
- Extending the term lowers the monthly payment but can increase total interest even at a lower rate. Check both numbers before deciding.
Your result is an estimate based on the information entered.
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HomeCalc USA — Refinance Calculator
Generated
Inputs
- Original loan amount: 320000
- Current interest rate: 7.25
- Original term: 30 years
- Payments already made: 36
- New interest rate: 6
- New term: 30 years
- Refinance closing costs: 5000
- Cash taken out: 0
- Closing costs paid: Rolled into the new loan
Results
Monthly payment saving: $294
- Monthly payment (P&I): $2,183
- Remaining balance: $309,995
- Payments remaining: 324
- Interest remaining if you keep it: $397,286
- New loan amount: $314,995
- Cash out: $0
- Closing costs: $5,000
- Monthly payment (P&I): $1,889
- Payments: 360
- Total interest over the new term: $364,884
- Monthly difference: $294
- Cash required at closing: $0
- Break-even point: 17 months
- Total interest difference: $32,402
Assumptions
- The current loan is a fixed-rate mortgage with no extra principal payments made.
- The new loan is fixed-rate and held to maturity.
- Only principal and interest are compared; taxes and insurance are unchanged by a refinance.
- Break-even is measured against payment savings only, ignoring the interest cost of rolled-in fees.
Estimates are for informational purposes only and may differ from actual costs, lender offers, tax assessments or contractor quotes.
What your result means
The monthly saving compares principal-and-interest payments only. The break-even month divides your closing costs by that saving to show how many payments it takes to recover the cost of refinancing. If you plan to move or refinance again before that month, the new loan likely costs more than it saves.
The lifetime interest comparison tells a different story than the monthly payment does. A refinance can lower your payment while increasing total interest paid, if it extends the term. Look at both figures together before deciding.
How to use this calculator
Describe your existing loan first: the original amount, its rate and term, and how many payments you have made. The calculator derives your current balance and remaining payments from those, so you do not need to look up the balance — though using your servicer's actual figure is more precise if you have made extra payments.
Then enter the new loan you have been quoted. Choose whether closing costs are paid in cash or added to the balance; rolling them in avoids upfront cash but means paying interest on them for the whole term.
Pay attention to the term you select. Refinancing a loan you are three years into back to a fresh 30 years restarts amortization; setting the new term to match the remaining years gives a cleaner comparison of the rate benefit alone.
What each input means
| Input | What it means |
|---|---|
| Payments already made | Used to calculate your current amortized balance and how much interest remains if you keep the existing loan unchanged. |
| Closing costs | Lender, title, appraisal and recording fees for the new loan — get this from the lender's loan estimate, not a rough guess. |
| Cash taken out | Extra principal borrowed beyond your current payoff, added to the new loan balance and typically priced at a higher rate. |
| Closing costs paid | Rolling costs into the loan raises the balance and the interest paid on those costs over the full term; paying cash avoids that but requires funds at closing. |
| New term | Setting this to your remaining years, rather than a fresh 30, isolates the effect of the rate change from the effect of resetting amortization. |
Formula used
The remaining balance on the current loan comes from the amortization identity:
B = P × [ (1 + r)^n − (1 + r)^p ] / [ (1 + r)^n − 1 ]
- P — original principal, r — monthly rate
- n — total payments, p — payments already made
The new payment uses the standard mortgage formula on the refinanced balance:
New loan = balance + cash out + (closing costs, if rolled in)
Break-even months = closing costs ÷ monthly payment saving
Total interest on each side is the sum of payments over the remaining or new term minus the principal repaid.
Worked example
A $320,000 loan at 7.25% over 30 years has a payment of about $2,183. After 36 payments the balance is roughly $310,000 with 324 payments left, and $397,000 of interest still to come.
Refinancing at 6% for a new 30-year term with $5,000 of costs rolled in creates a $315,000 loan and a payment near $1,889 — a saving of about $294 per month, so the $5,000 of costs is recovered in roughly 17 months. Total interest on the new loan is about $365,000, so the refinance also saves money over the long run despite restarting the clock.
What counts toward refinance closing costs?
Origination fees, appraisal, title insurance, recording fees and, if applicable, discount points. Your lender's loan estimate lists these individually — use that total rather than a rough guess.
Does a shorter new term ever lower the payment?
Only if the rate drop is large enough to offset faster principal repayment. Shortening the term usually raises the payment even at a lower rate, but it cuts total interest substantially — a different goal than a rate-and-term refinance aimed at lowering the payment.
Factors that change the result
- Break-even horizon
- Compare the break-even month to how long you actually expect to stay in the home or keep this loan. Moving or refinancing again before that point erases the benefit.
- Term reset
- Restarting a 30-year clock after paying down an existing loan for several years shifts your amortization back toward mostly-interest payments, even at a lower rate.
- Rolled-in costs vs cash
- Financing closing costs adds them to the balance you pay interest on for decades; paying cash keeps the balance lower but requires liquidity now.
- Cash-out pricing
- Lenders treat cash-out refinances as higher risk and price the rate above a comparable rate-and-term refinance, especially above certain loan-to-value thresholds.
- PMI and escrow
- A refinance can remove private mortgage insurance once equity reaches typical thresholds, but it also triggers a new escrow account funded at closing, separate from any escrow refund from the old loan.
- No-cost refinance pricing
- A 'no closing cost' refinance simply moves those costs into a higher interest rate. Compare the total interest cost against paying the fees upfront at a lower rate.
Common mistakes to avoid
Comparing only the monthly payment
A lower payment from a longer term can mean more total interest paid. Check the lifetime interest figures, not just the monthly number.
Ignoring the break-even point
Refinancing shortly before selling or moving can cost more in fees than it saves in reduced payments.
Forgetting the new escrow deposit
Cash needed at closing often includes new escrow funding in addition to the closing costs entered here.
Assuming a no-cost refinance is free
The costs are embedded in a higher rate. Run the numbers against a paid-cost option at a lower rate to see which is cheaper over your expected time in the loan.
Treating cash-out and rate-and-term refinances the same
Cash-out loans carry higher rates and stricter equity requirements — quotes for the two are not directly comparable.
Practical tips
- Get a loan estimate from at least two or three lenders; closing costs and rates both vary meaningfully between them.
- Match the new term to your remaining years if your goal is a lower rate rather than a lower payment.
- Ask your current servicer when your escrow refund will be issued so you can plan around the gap.
- If you are close to 20% equity, ask whether a new appraisal would let you drop mortgage insurance without a full refinance.
- Run the break-even calculation against how long you realistically expect to keep the loan, not just how long you plan to own the home.
When the estimate may differ from reality
Your actual closing disclosure may include lender credits, discount points, per-diem interest and prepaid escrow items not captured in a single "closing costs" figure. Rate quotes also shift with market conditions between the estimate you get today and your actual rate lock, so use this calculator to compare structures — rolled-in vs. cash, cash-out vs. rate-and-term, short vs. long term — rather than to predict an exact bill.
Assumptions and limitations
What this calculator assumes
- The current loan is a fixed-rate mortgage with no extra principal payments made.
- The new loan is fixed-rate and held to maturity.
- Only principal and interest are compared; taxes and insurance are unchanged by a refinance.
- Break-even is measured against payment savings only, ignoring the interest cost of rolled-in fees.
What it does not account for
- Escrow account refunds and new escrow funding at closing.
- Mortgage insurance changes, which can matter if your equity position has moved.
- Cash-out rate adjustments — lenders usually price cash-out refinances higher.
- Tax consequences of interest deductibility on cash-out proceeds.
Frequently asked questions
- How much does a rate need to drop to be worth refinancing?
- There is no fixed threshold. What matters is whether you will keep the loan past the break-even point shown above. A small rate drop on a large balance can pay off quickly; a large drop on a small balance may not.
- Does refinancing restart my loan?
- Yes, unless you choose a shorter term. A new 30-year loan resets amortization, so early payments go mostly to interest again. Selecting a term close to your remaining years preserves your progress while capturing the lower rate.
- Should I roll closing costs into the loan?
- Rolling them in preserves cash but you pay interest on those costs for the life of the loan. Paying in cash produces a lower balance and payment. The break-even calculation above uses the closing cost total either way.
- What is a cash-out refinance?
- You borrow more than you owe and receive the difference in cash, secured against your home equity. Rates are typically higher than for a rate-and-term refinance, and the larger balance increases both your payment and your risk if values fall.
- What is a no-cost refinance?
- It is not free — the lender covers your closing costs in exchange for a higher interest rate than you would otherwise qualify for. The cost is spread into the rate instead of paid upfront, so compare the lifetime interest, not just the absence of a closing bill.
- Do I get my escrow account back when I refinance?
- Your current servicer typically refunds the balance of your old escrow account a few weeks after the payoff, while the new loan opens its own escrow account funded at closing. Budget for that new escrow cushion as a separate upfront cost even in a rolled-in-costs refinance.
- Can refinancing remove my mortgage insurance?
- If a new appraisal shows you have reached roughly 20% equity, a conventional refinance can eliminate private mortgage insurance. FHA loans work differently — most require mortgage insurance for the life of the loan unless you refinance out of the FHA program entirely.
- What is the difference between rate-and-term and cash-out refinancing?
- A rate-and-term refinance replaces the loan's rate or term without changing the balance beyond rolled-in costs. A cash-out refinance adds new borrowed principal on top of the payoff amount. Lenders price cash-out loans higher and often cap the loan-to-value ratio more tightly.
Sources and references
Related guides
- How Mortgage Payments Are CalculatedThe amortization formula behind a fixed-rate mortgage payment, a worked example, what PITI includes, and why your lender quote differs from a calculator.
- How Mortgage Refinancing WorksHow a refinance replaces your loan, the break-even math on closing costs, cash-out refinancing, and when refinancing usually does not pay off.
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